Rating:

Opened less than six months ago, this Italian restaurant already appears to be doing a brisk business in the Willow Grove, Upper Dublin Township area. On a clear Friday evening, by 7:30, its 142-seat, airy, high-ceiling dining room was nearly filled.

By that time, my L.D.C. (Lovely Dining Companion) and I were enjoying the bottle of rosé wine we brought to this B.Y.O.B., sipping from the beautifully-shaped glass stemware Svago provided.

Bright sunlight was still streaming in the many large windows. It illuminated the limoncello-colored walls, black vinyl booths, the tables set with maroon over white linens and dark beige napkins, and our shining pink wine-filled goblets.

Enticing aromas of baking pizza and the matchless cuisines of Sicily and Napoli drifted in from the large open kitchen and filled the dining area.

Our very pleasant server started things by bringing out a basket of homemade garlic bread and plain Italian bread with a dish of herb-seasoned olive oil.

The in-house baked breads were not typical Italian, but higher raised and very fresh. She also served us a plate of good quality bruschetta (Italian-style tomato salsa on slices of toasted bread).

Everything, including the desserts, are homemade daily on the premises, by owner and chef Ida DeLuca, a woman of great determination and boundless energy. Opening Svago was her dream.

“I come to work and I love it!” she said.

This love comes through in the food she cooks, and if you give her advance notice, she will make most any dish you request and can accommodate any dietary needs. I asked if she would make me one of my favorites — osso buco, a braised veal dish that generally takes five hours to prepare. She said she would if I called “like five days ahead.”

Svago (Italian for “relaxation”) offers a lunch and takeout menu that includes a very wide spectrum of sandwiches and pizzas. The dinner menu has a broad array of Italian comfort food favorites such as baked ziti, baked lasagna, manicotti and veal parmigiana, along with a handful of hot and cold Italian appetizers, salads and three classic soups.

The children’s menu features dishes for only $5 to $6. (Sandwiches and pizzas from the lunch menu are also available at dinner.)

We had cups of the minestrone and pasta fagioli ($2.50 each), enjoying the excellent latter fagioli more than the former minestrone.

My main dish was Svago’s signature chicken alla Marsala ($16), a generous serving of breaded breasts bathed in a truly delicious Marsala sauce with lots of sautéed mushrooms and onions. DeLuca serves it as a pasta dish, the chicken tossed in with a pasta of your choice, which I did not expect, but was very pleased with the dish.

Our other entrée choice was linguini with white clam sauce ($15), one of my L.D.C.’s favorites. The dish had a handful of Little Necks still in their shells. She flatly declared it to be “nicely spiced,” and I agreed that it was very delicious. Indeed, she liked everything she tasted at Svago.

All the entrées are served with pasta and a salad. The “side” salads were much more than that … large and colorful with several kinds of green and red leaf lettuce and frisee, carrots, yellow pepper and croutons that are all especially fresh.

Desserts are imported from the wonderful Bindi line, and include gelato and sorbet, tiramisu, fruit torte and cappuccino cake.

Overall Rating: mmmm (out of 5 m’s) for fresh, delectable Italian comfort food at affordable prices.

To contact Mitch Davis, e-mail him at: MdavisMainCourse@aol.com

Svago Italian Ristorante Location: : 2862 Moreland Road (Route 63), Willow Grove Phone Number: 267-781-0000 Cuisine: Southern Italian Ambience: Pleasant, low noise level, airy Web site: www.svagoitalianrestaurant.webs.com Hours: Monday to Thursday: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday: 3 to 9 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, soups, salads $2.50 to $11; Entrées $10 to $21 Alcoholic Beverages: B.Y.O.B.